Buttery-- Buttery aromas and flavors exist in wines that have undergone malolactic fermentation, a process that sometimes follows a wine's alcoholic fermentation. In the malolactic process, bacteria convert malic acid (which is fairly harsh) to lactic acid (which is softer on the palate), and a byproduct of the reaction is a compound called diacetyl. Diacetyl is the same compound found in butter which makes butter smell, well, buttery. Most red wines undergo malolactic fermentation, but diacetyl is faint enough that by the time a red wine is bottled and released, the buttery aromas are pretty well masked by all the wine's other aromas. White wines don't have quite as much going on with their aromatics, so that buttery quality is more apparent to the nose. Not all whites undergo malolactic fermentation, and in many cases the buttery quality would clash with the other flavors and aromas and be generally unpleasant. The exception to this is Chardonnay, which often benefits from the flavor. And since the butteriness is the result of the conversion of harsh malic acid to soft lactic acid, buttery wines are generally wines with lower perceived acidity.

Oxidized-- Just as oxidization wipes out a wine's bright colors over time, it wipes out the bright flavors and aromas. The result, for example, would be that a wine with flavors of fresh strawberries turns into a wine with very faint flavors of strawberries and dominant flavors of alcohol, old caramel, sherry, and occasionally acetic acid. Except for the alcohol, these types of flavors are the result of oxidation, and once a wine's fruit is gone, that's all you're left with. A little oxidation is usually good, especially considering that without oxidation, great wine would never mature to become even greater wines. The damage to a wine is when the process goes too far. I should point out that there's nothing harmful about a wine in this state; the worst it will do is offend your nose and palate.

Reduced-- Chemically speaking, this is the complement of oxidized, and neither reaction takes place without the other. But just because excessive oxidation is a fault, this doesn't mean that a reduced wine is preferable to one that is oxidized. If there is too little oxygen available to a wine, the result is that the wine can show skunky aromas of sulfur, burnt match heads, and something akin to swamp gas. The ideal state for a wine is for there to be a proper equilibrium of reduction and oxidation.

Vinegar-- I feel the need to mention this one because it's a misunderstood term (where wine is concerned, at least) and one that is typically used only by people who don't understand exactly what vinegar is and what its relationship is to wine. Old, over-the-hill wine is not vinegar; it's simply old, over-the-hill wine. Vinegar, on the other hand, is the result of taking any dilute alcohol solution (not just wine) and allowing the alcohol to be oxidized and converted into acetic acid by acetobacter bacteria. It is very, very rare for this process to happen spontaneously to a bottle of wine. Yes, over time some of the alcohol in a wine will be converted to acetic acid through the slow process of oxidization, but that does not mean that the wine is vinegar. Even amongst the world's worst wineries, sanitation is generally good enough that there will be no acetobacter present in the bottled wine, and, therefore, no chance that the wine will ever turn into actual vinegar.

Corked-- This is the smell that results from the compound TCA, trichloranisole, which can find its way into wine via a tainted cork. A corked wine has the nasty smell of old, wet, moldy cardboard. The TCA results (ironically) from sanitizing cork with chlorine bleach during the manufacturing process, and once it has affected the wine, there's nothing that can make it go away. Corked wines are a major problem in the business and are the main reason that many producers have moved to screwcaps and synthetic closures. TCA, I should point out, cannot hurt you; as with an over-the-hill wine, a corked wine will merely offend the nose and palate.


And so there you have it-- our brief (ha!) summary of the major descriptors that are used by wine geeks when describing a wine's appearance and flavor. As mentioned in the introduction to this piece, this is hardly a comprehensive discussion, but it is, I hope, a good start. In the following articles, we'll take a shot at the various terms we use to describe structure and texture, which will bring us into realms that are rather more subjective and creative.

See you then!

contributed by Brian Hoffer - www.savoreachglass.com

Aromas and flavors are very difficult to describe, especially since we rarely even attempt to do so outside the context of wine. Unless you're a food analyst working for Campbell's, chances are that no one has ever asked you to provide a complete and unabridged inventory of every aroma, flavor, texture and sensation that you experience when slurping down a spoonful of tomato soup. Instead, you just think, "Mmm, mmm, good!"

When we eat, we describe food as being 'delicious' or 'satisfying' or'‘awful' or 'overcooked' or 'filling,' not as tasting or smelling like something they are not: A steak tastes and smells like a steak. Wines, on the other hand, are the complete opposite; it's very rare that they smell or taste of grapes, and wine often has a fruit or cinnamon or leather aroma. And that's one of the strange beauties of Vitis vinifera, the wine grape: with absolutely no additives, and minimal intervention by the winemaker, nearly all vinifera varieties will yield wines that taste and smell nothing at all of grapes, but taste and smell plenty of blackberries or white pepper or slate or smoked meats.

This broad variation in how wines can smell can turn describing those flavors and aromas into a nightmare. But it doesn't have to be. Just like color and appearance, descriptions of a particular flavor can be taken at face value: when we say that we taste strawberries, we mean just that-- the wine tastes like strawberries, plain and simple. Not that strawberries were somehow added to the wine. Simply that all the factors involved in making a wine resulted in a wine that has a strawberry flavor as part of its character.

But there are some terms that may be confusing, especially so when the same word is often used in different ways:

Sweet (sugar)-- In the world of wine, the most basic, chemical definition of sweet is that a wine has a noticeable sugar content. The sugar content of a wine also affects its tactile qualities, something we'll get to later.

Sweet (aroma/flavor)-- Many wines have flavors and aromas that are very strongly associated with sweetness, but which are not actually sweet (containing sugar). So we describe 'sweet vanilla', 'sweet oak', 'sweet preserves', 'candied orange zest', meaning while the wine tastes sweet, it has a low sugar content.

Dry (sugar)-- Most wines are chemically dry, meaning that they contain no sugar. From a chemical standpoint, that's all that dry means: the opposite of sweet. The perception of a wine's dryness can be increased by acidity or tannin, but we'll get to that when we talk about structure and texture.

Fruity-- One of the most commonly misinterpreted terms, fruitiness is not the same as sweetness. A fruity wine is one in which the fruit aromas and flavors are the most dominant characteristic. Most light, young Côtes-du-Rhône red wines, for example, have very strong aromas and flavors of ripe raspberries and strawberries. The wine may taste fruity, but chemically speaking, it is bone dry and contains absolutely no sugar.

Fruit-- When we talk generally about a wine's fruit, we're simply making reference to the wine's fruit flavors; not necessarily saying that it is fruity or jammy. If I describe a wine as having "a nice balance of fruit, spice, and oak," I mean just that-- I like the way that the fruit flavors, spicy flavors, and oak flavors all come together.

Jammy-- Sort of a step above fruity; and again, this term has nothing to do with actual chemical sweetness or sugar. Think of the difference between strawberries and strawberry jam: the jam is more concentrated, more densely flavored, more fruity than fruity.

Spicy-- As with every other flavor descriptor, this term does not mean that anything (spice, in this case) has been added to the wine. The term also isn't meant to imply that a wine is spicy in the mouth-burning, I-just-ate-a-habañero, hot hot hot sense. Spice aromas that wines frequently reveal are black and white pepper (especially in Syrah and Grenache, respectively), clove, cinnamon, anise, nutmeg, and so on. Very often, though, there won't be a specific spice aroma that comes leaping forward-- the wine simply has a general, very noticeable character that we describe with the catchall term spicy.

Oaky-- Quite literally that the wine has flavors and aromas of oak. When wines are aged in oak barrels (especially new oak barrels) they take on some of the flavors of oak. The higher the percentage of new oak barrels used and the longer the wine stays in those barrels, the more oaky the finished wine will be. Oak can impart notes of vanilla, baking spices, liquor, and other flavors.

Earthy-- A difficult term to explain, in part because the word seems to have largely negative connotations for some people. When used to describe a wine, writers are not suggesting that drinking Château X is like eating a handful of mud. People who love earthiness in wine enjoy the aromas in much the way that an avid gardener enjoys the aromas and rich fecundity of his soil. Another positive way to think about it might be to contemplate the deliciously earthy aromas that mushrooms give off as they're sautéed. Excessive earthiness, of course, is not a positive attribute, just as excess in any attribute is generally not positive.

Tart/Sour-- Both words are used in reference to a wine's acidity, and they're useful in describing both flavor and texture. Tartness is often a positive attribute; sourness is nearly always a negative and can be interpreted as meaning excessively tart. If ‘tart' doesn't sound positive, think of how refreshing a light, ice-cold, citrusy white wine can be on a hot, muggy day-- that's tartness at its best.

 contributed by Brian Hoffer - www.savoreachglass.com

EMILY PELTON WINS JUDGES CHOICE AWARD IN 2007 NATIONAL WOMEN’S WINE COMPETITION

Emily takes her place beside the best women wine makers in California as the Overall Winner of the red, white, Sparkling and Dessert wine categories in the Women Winemakers Challenge portion of the 2007 National Women’s Wine Competition.

Other gold medal winners included Carol Shelton of Shelton Wines, Joy Andersen of Erath Vineyards, Eileen Crane of Domaine Carneros, Dorothy Schuler of Bodegas Paso Robles, Denise Shurtleff of Cambria Estate Winery and Domenica Totty of Beaulieu Vineyards.

The winning wine:
Veritas 2005 Kenmar, Traminette, Monticello AVA
Emily Pelton, Winemaker

The winning wine also won:
Sweepstakes Winner (Open) Competition
Dessert Wine
Gold Medal
Sweepstakes Winner Women’s Winemaker’s Challenge Competition
Dessert Wine
Gold Medal

Determined on a career in wine making Emily completed a Masters in Enology at Virginia Tech with Bruce Zoeklein. The winemaker at Veritas Winery (annual production of 10,000 cases per year) in Afton Virginia; Emily puts the quality of wine above everything constantly working on characterizing the terroir of the vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Veritas began operations in 1999 producing the first vintage in 2001 the year both her Grandparents died. Her grand - mother Marjorie rejoiced in sweet wine “so we decided to name our sweet wine after Kenneth and Marjorie calling it “Kenmar” in honor of their memory” Emily explained.

Traminette is a French- French hybrid of Gewurtztraminer and Joannes –Seyve (JS) 23-416 which originated from Cornell in the mid nineties. The grape is to all and intents and purposes a Gewurtztraminer that grows beautifully in Virginia. The wonderful aroma of roses in the Kenmar -is the ‘Gewurtz’ component from the Traminette. The wine was made using an Ice Wine- like process with cryo – extraction resulting in a 14.5 % alcohol and 8% residual sugar in the wine. The perfect balance of sugar and acid accentuate the panoply of honeyed tropical fruit, and crystallized citrus flavors that fill the mouth finishing in mellifluous harmony.

April 18, 2008; The Commonwealth of Virginia yesterday started operating the Virginia Winery Distribution Company, toasting the launch during a ceremony at King Family Vineyards in Crozet, Virginia. The new venture is the result of a move by the Virginia General Assembly to provide wineries and farm wineries an alternative to using independent wine wholesalers.

Any Virginia winery that chooses to participate may distribute up to 3,000 cases of their wine per year through VWDC, which is associated with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services.

In the past, self-distribution allowed wineries to market and sell their products directly to shops and restaurants without using an independent wine wholesaler.

In September 2005, though, Virginia's wineries were dealt a huge blow when a federal court ruled that self-distribution by Virginia wineries was "unconstitutional" because it granted Virginia wineries privileges that were not extended to out-of-state wineries. Moreover, in July 2006, a new Virginia law eliminated all self-distribution privileges in Virginia. At that time, nearly two-thirds of Virginia wineries did not use independent wholesalers.

In 2007, legislation was introduced creating the VWDC, which operates within the existing wine distribution system, a "wine wholesaler" for small Virginia wineries. Using VWDC, winery workers will continue to market their wine to shops and restaurants. However, they will act as agents of VWDC when placing orders and making wholesale deliveries of their wine. The VWDC will provide electronic purchase orders and invoices, collect and remit taxes, and submit government reports. By contract, VWDC and the winery share delivery workers, bonded warehouse space and delivery vehicles. The cost to Virginia wineries using the services of VWDC will be $5 per transaction initially.

According to Todd Haymore, Commissioner of the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, the Virginia wine industry credits self-distribution with being the single most important factor in the growth of the number of farm wineries. There were six wineries in Virginia in 1980 and according to Wine Business Monthly's proprietary database, there are 147 bonded wineries there today.

"Losing the capability to self distribute was a major blow to many of our farm wineries," Haymore said in announcing the launch of the new distribution cooperative."

The VWDC is governed by a Board that consists of two winery owners, two wine wholesalers and the Commissioner of VDACS. David King, owner of King Family Vineyards in Crozet, Virginia, is board chairman. So far, 52 wineries and farm wineries have signed up to use VWDC, with 18 more pending.